Sunday 16 December 2012

Women in Black

One of the first reactions I usually have to deal with when I tell someone I live in Saudi Arabia is: "Ohmigod, do you have to wear a burqa?!?". After getting this for the umpteenth time yesterday, I decided it's finally time to cover the topic of female attire in the Kingdom.

First of all, a burqa is a garment seen only occasionally in Saudi Arabia. It's a type of outerwear that covers a woman's entire body, and even includes a veil which covers the eyes. Burqas are a rather extreme form of Islamic dress, and are mainly worn in countries such as Afghanistan, where they are imposed on the female population by the regime. In Saudi, women wear abayas, hijabs, and, very often, niqabs. The abaya is a loose-fitting black garment, worn over regular clothing, which covers the body like a long dress, from the neck down to the feet. The word hijab usually refers to the headscarf that serves to cover womens' hair, but can also be used to convey the concept of modesty in general.  The niqab is a black cloth, about the size of a handkerchief used to cover a woman's mouth and/or nose.
 Women will be women everywhere, so even with this seemingly limited choice of clothing, each one strives to create her own personal style. Abayas can be found in all sorts of designs, always maintaining the appropriate amount of modesty, of course. They are often adorned with embroidery or sequins, mostly along the sleeves and hem. What's really surprising though, is the variety of ways a hijab can be worn. You'd think that a cloth covering your hair could only look one particular way. However, I have found that wrapping a hijab around your head is something of an art. I haven't managed to do it myself yet, but the local women seem to have hundreds of different techniques. What also varies, is the amount of face and/or hair each women chooses to reveal. Some wear their hijabs low, covering their faces down to the eyebrows, while others wear them pushed farther back, sometimes even omitting a few locks of hair on purpose. Certain women also wear dark sunglasses indoors to hide their eyes, while others even wear black gloves. The amount of skin revealed is based on each woman's interpretation of Islamic law stating that believing women should cover their bodies and hair. There is no requirement for faces and hands to be covered, yet some women choose to do so. It's all a matter of personal belief.

Expat women are only expected to cover their bodies with abayas, and in some places, such as the souk, it is simply prudent to wear the hijab as well, to avoid unwanted staring. Now, what follows the first question is usually:  "Doesn't it offend you,  being forced to cover your body in an unflattering black thing every time you want to leave the house? Don't you feel oppressed?". Nope.  Sorry to disappoint, but I don't feel oppressed or offended by this. And it's not just because I'm generally not especially fussed when it comes to clothing. Imagine for a second that you are staying over at a friend's house for a couple of nights. Your host politely requests that you don't walk around the house in your nightwear, because he/she doesn't feel comfortable with it. Do you feel oppressed because you have to wear a robe, whereas at home you never do? I don't think so. You probably oblige happily, respecting the person who let you into their home, even if you don't necessarily agree with his/her views on decency.
 This is exactly the case here. I am a guest in this country and Saudis are my hosts. This attire is not only a religious requirement, but also a remnant of bedouin tradition wanting wives covered up, for fear of them being stolen by rivals. Therefore,  it's an extremely important part of Saudi culture. I don't mind wearing an abaya knowing that in this way I respect the local culture. It's only clothing after all. And besides, abayas are even practical in a couple of ways. At least when you're not tripping over them on staircases or getting them tangled in the wheels of your shopping cart. That might just be my complete lack of grace though. Anyway, one of the main perks of wearing an abaya is that they keep you nice and warm.  You're probably wondering why one would need to keep warm in the desert. Well, it may be blazing hot outside, but in all indoor areas, from malls and restaurants to banks and supermarkets, the AC is always on full blast, making it absolutely freezing. The best part of wearing an abaya though, in my opinion, is that you never have to fret over clothes. It's the answer to womens' age old dilemma of "what shall I wear".  It practically eradicates the dilemma, since there is barely any choice.  All you need to do is pick out an abaya. Under that you could be wearing a color combination as eye-watering as Dora the Explorer's, or even go stark naked and no one would ever know. Yeah, I'm not the worlds biggest fashionista. Whatever.

Wrapping up, I request that next time you see a woman in Muslim attire you don't hasten to pity the "poor oppressed soul".  Remember that this dress, conservative and oppressing as it may seem, is the product of their religious and cultural beliefs, a personal life choice. Unless you see this woman in a country where it's deemed mandatory by some sort of dictatorship. In that case, you can weep your eyes out with my blessing,  although I'm willing to bet clothes are the least of her worries.

Perspective.

Saturday 8 December 2012

PhotoEssay: Jeddah's Bizarre Artwork Top 10

When I first arrived in Jeddah, one of the first things I noticed was the presence of all sorts of artwork (sculptures,arches,fountains, etc.) seemingly strewn about the city's main roads. After living here for a month I found out why. Apparently, one of Jeddah's former mayors was something of a visionary, and hoped to turn the city into the world's largest open-air art gallery. Many artists, Arabs as well as Europeans, were summoned to produce works of art for this cause. As a result, Jeddah today is adorned with dozens of pieces of art, mainly sculptures. Because it is prohibited in Islam to imitate Allah's creations in any way, art here takes the form only of inanimate objects. Some of this artwork is quite nice, some interesting, but a lot of it is just plain weird. I decided to create a small photo essay of the strangest, most bizarre, artistic creations from the streets of Jeddah to show you what I mean. Most of the following are found along the coastal road or roundabouts throughout the city. Here goes:


#10


This is just one of those things that are supposed to be "modern and abstract", I guess. Maybe the artist should have worked more on "aesthetically pleasing" though. 

#9


I can only assume these are enormous chocolate ice cream cones, just chilling in the middle of the road.


#8 


It's a gigantic red faucet. Enough said.

#7  


Sometimes I like to think that this sculpture is making a statement, perhaps about the value of fair play, or the importance of an active, healthy lifestyle. Then again, maybe it's just a huge yellow whistle.

#6 


There's actually a whole series of these, not just the pliers.  There's also a saw, cutting through some wooden boxes, a hammer, banging on some enormous bricks, and a spade, sticking out of a block of concrete. I really don't know why though.

#5 
 

This thing just looks like the product of a minaret and a really big seashell mating.


#4


Is it a wave? Is it an octopus? Nope, it's a bunch of blue tiles and it's ugly.


#3 


This can only be a tribute to Saudis'  driving skills.


#2 


This is probably one of my favorite artworks in Jeddah's open- air gallery. I mean, it's a car riding a flying carpet. Doesn't get much cooler than that.

#1


I didn't manage to capture this as I would have liked, since I was in a moving car. In case you can't tell, it's a boat overflowing with massive fruit, riding tile waves. I'm pretty sure it's the most random thing I've ever seen.


Well, that's my Top 10 of Jeddah's most bizarre art, but it's really the smallest possible sample of the incredible artwork to be found in the city's streets. If you'd like to see more, please comment below :)

Tuesday 4 December 2012

Dubai Days, Pt.II

So, continuing from where I left off on my last post, more things I enjoyed in Dubai:

*Dubai Museum

The Dubai Museum is located inside Al Fahidi Fort, built in 1787 to protect the city from invasion and renovated into a museum in 1971. Some of its exhibitions are what you would expect to see in most museums: jewelry, weaponry, all sorts of everyday artifacts. What's really impressive though, is the lifesize dioramas in the galleries, which depict life in the U.A.E. before the discovery of oil. Scenes from desert and marine life,  trading in the souks, date harvests, religious practices, and more, come to life while walking through this amazing exhibition. The figures are so lifelike it's almost eerie.



*Sand in a Bottle Art


This man had a little stall, at which he sat creating a very unique form of art. I stopped to watch him and he explained the procedure to me as he worked. Around him were many bowls filled with sand that he had dyed earlier in a variety of colors. Taking sand from these bowls, he poured layer upon layer, switching colors as he went, into a glass bottle, until he had created an image of camels with rippling sand dunes in the background. He packed the sand in tightly, sealing the top with glue, so, even if the bottle were to be shaken vigorously, the image would not be ruined. He made this little masterpiece in less than 10', and of course I bought one, the only souvenir I got from Dubai.



*Cruising the Dubai Creek

The Creek is essentially the reason Dubai exists as a city, since this is where members of the Bani Yas tribe created the first settlement. Not only that, but it was also where the pearl trade with the outside world began. Today, trading still commences on dhows (traditional wooden boats) on the Deira side of the Creek. Taking a cruise on the Creek is a rather touristy thing to do, but very pleasant. Large or smaller dhows carry passengers along the Dubai Creek, passing by key points of the city, such as souks, the Dubai Museum, the Heritage Village, mosques and more.


*National Pride

 December 2nd and 3rd are U.A.E.'s national days, celebrating its formal nationalization from the British Protectorate Treaties and the unification of the seven emirates (1971). This means that when we got there, preparations were in full flow, and Dubai was completely decked out in celebratory decoration . The whole city was a haze of green, red, black and white. Flags were the main decoration, as it happens on national days around the world. Simply everywhere, ranging from tiny ones clasped onto car windows with little plastic rods, to enormous ones, that seemed about an acre wide, draped on skyscraper exteriors. It wasn't just the flags though, everything seemed to be U.A.E. themed. I even saw a few cars with a U.A.E. paint job, complete with the faces of the local rulers on the side doors. That's another thing I get a kick out of, and it's done in Saudi Arabia as well. The rulers' faces are everywhere, often blown up to enormous proportions, so wherever you go, you have Sheikh Something-or-Other staring down at you. I just love visiting cities when they're all "dressed up" and festive :)



Saturday 1 December 2012

Dubai Days, Pt.I


These past few days, I spent in a very different part of the Arab world, one that is familiar to most westerners, as it is one of the world's leading travel destinations. Dubai.
Dubai is truly a remarkable city, especially considering the fact that, within mere decades, it has transformed itself, from a quiet coastal settlement to a bustling metropolis. The discovery of oil in the region was, of course, key to this incredible growth and prosperity. However, the insightful leadership decided not to rely solely on oil revenues, which wouldn't last forever, by investing in creating a quality tourism destination. Within approximately 30 years, modern Dubai emerged, exciting and culturally diverse, a true cosmopolitan city.
Having said all that, Dubai wouldn't be on my list of "must see" destinations, the reason for this being that it is a bit too superficial for my taste. Its iconic towers, massive shopping malls, theme parks, extremely luxurious hotels and  a wide variety of leisure activities, ranging from skydiving to yachting, have practically "buried" the region's Islamic and Bedouin heritage, creating an enormous playground for the wealthy tourist. Hints of Dubai's heritage can only be discerned  in  things such as the plethora of  mosques in the city or the traditional attire of the few locals(locals represent only 8% of Dubai's population, the rest being expatriates and migrant workers).
Even though Dubai is not "must see" material and quite lacking culturally , in my opinion at least, it would be impossible not to admit that I had a very enjoyable time there. After all, it is a city with the capability to satisfy the entertainment needs of any tourist, very different from Jeddah, where fun is kind of difficult to come across.  Here are some of my favorite things from my trip to Dubai :

* Burj Khalifa , "At the top"

The tallest building in the world, Burj Khalifa, rises 828m above Dubai and has 162 floors. With this height, even New York's famous skyscrapers are dwarfed by comparison. This architectural wonder was built to resemble the desert flower Hymenocalli.
Visitors can take the "At the top" journey, to the floor-to-ceiling glass observation deck on the 124th floor. There was a very long line and airport style security measures to wait through, but it was entirely worth it. Crammed into one of the building's 57 lifts along with 10-15 more enthusiastic tourists, the ascent took just over a minute to complete, before we exited to a stunning view of Dubai landscapes, city, desert and ocean.   Walking around the observation deck there is barely an inch of Dubai that goes undiscovered. Surprisingly, I wasn't able to see the trademark of Dubai, the Palm Islands, which was a bit of a disappointment. The rest of the view made up for it though, and being so high above the world gives you a truly amazing feeling.


The view from above

* Dubai's Dancing Fountains


Located in front of Burj Khalifa,on the Burj Khalifa Lake, Dubai Fountain provides a spectacular show of lights, water and music every half hour during the evening and twice around midday. Music starts playing and the performance begins, with great jets of water shooting out of the fountains as high as 150m. Twisting and turning in different patterns and combinations, following the song's rhythm, they seem to be dancing like synchronized swimmers. Colorful lights are projected across the water adding to this magnificent sight. The technology behind this performance is incredible. The fountain's "dance recitals" are extremely popular and huge crowds gather round it before every show.

* Dune-Bashing
This is one of the things you absolutely have to do if you ever find yourself in Dubai, or any place with an abundance of sand for that matter. There are many agencies in Dubai which organize "dune-bashing" expeditions. We opted for an evening expedition, so, round 4 'o' clock, a driver in a white Hummer picked us up from our hotel and drove us to the desert about 30' away from the city. Upon arriving we were greeted by a convoy of more white SUVs from the same agency. The driver gave us a few minutes to take pictures, while he released pressure from the tires. I took this opportunity to remove my shoes and walk in the sand. It was pure bliss. Soft and warm, I sank into it almost up to my knees. Never before have I encountered sand with such lovely texture. Soon, we were in the car again, ready to start "bashing the dunes". We raced up and down incredibly steep dunes, kicking up sand in our wake, rolled along the top of others, jostling terribly in the back seat, until, with an abrupt swerve, our driver sent us speeding down again. At certain points the car was practically moving on two wheels, leaning so much that, if the window were open, I could run my hand along the sand. It was excellent! Slightly terrifying and immensely thrilling, a great adrenaline rush. I wouldn't recommend it to anyone who suffers from motion sickness though. After about 40' of "bashing", our convoy gathered at a "Bedouin" camp, created by the agency, for supper, shisha smoking, camel riding and a variety of other activities.


This post turned out quite longer than I would have liked, so more on Dubai in the next one!