Souk Shopping

I finally ventured out of the compound to one of the places I was most eager to visit, Jeddah's Souk (open-air market). Every Tuesday and Thursday at 9.00 a bus departs from the compound, taking residents to the marketplace. It's the easiest way to get there if you don't have a car at your disposal, as there is no such thing as public transportation in Jeddah, except for taxi or limo service.

The souk was as traditional as I had hoped, with almost nothing to remind you of the Western world. It is actually said to be the last truly authentic souk in the Arab world. The setting, the people, the smells, everything made me feel as if I were right in the middle of the Middle East! The souk consists of several wide streets and more narrow alleyways. Its architecture is unique, as all buildings, ranging from crumbling to well preserved, retain their original Arabic style. Shopfronts open out onto the street, products on display, and salesmen praise their merchandise in loud, singsong voices, or call out "Hello!Welcome!", once they realize you are a foreigner. Literally anything can be purchased at the souk. Most popular merchandise are abayas (the traditional black garment women wear), spices, jewlery, prayer rugs, leather sandals, dates and colourful pashminas, but you could just as easily find electronics, beauty products (henna body paint seems to be very popular), even winter coats. The quality of most things is probably mediocre, but prices are more than reasonable, and by haggling you can usually get the shopkeeper to lower the price 5-10 SRs (Saudi Riyals).

Strolling through the souk, there was plenty of opportunity for people-watching. It was quite crowded, due to the presence of the remaining Hajj (pilgrimage to Mecca) pilgrims. Some men in traditional, mostly white, thobes walked down the street hand in hand, as a mark of respect to each other. Others sat in the streets smoking cigarettes, talking, and picking at their toes. It seems Saudi men have some sort of fixation with their feet. I noticed many of them rubbing their soles and between their toes, digging under their toenails and, twice, I even saw men clip their toenails on the sidewalk. It's every bit as appealing as it sounds...

Women are more discreet. They move in groups, chatting and shopping. Clad in black from head to foot, hijabs (black headscarves) and veils concealing their features, only their eyes give some clue as to their identity. I didn't see any women simply sitting around. Women who walk alone are usually beggars.

You will certainly see paupers at the souk. Elderly men, women of all ages and dusty children sidle up to you, palms outstretched for a few riyals. Show any sign of charity, smile even, and you will most likely be followed for a while. These beggars are virtually harmless though. Some men who are not exactly beggars, but certainly seem very poor, wheel cardboard boxes in steel trolleys, offering to carry your shopping bags for you, in exchange for a small amount of money.

All in all, I enjoyed the souk very much and look forward to going back again. If you ever find yourself in Jeddah make sure to check it out, it's definitely a unique and very authentic Middle Eastern experience!