Manama Moments

Last week I was in Manama, Bahrain. Manama is a very popular destination amongst Saudis, because it's something of a libertarian zone very close to home. Just a short plane ride, or a few hours drive and they have unlimited access to all those pleasures they are denied back in the Kingdom: from the most innocent things, like cinemas or western clothing for the women, to alcohol consumption and commercial sex, it's all there for the tourist to enjoy. According to the local taxi drivers, weekends are a bit of a nightmare for them, as thousands of Saudis flock into the country, many of them on their worst behaviour. However, this isn't to say that all Saudis go to Bahrain looking to get wasted and sleazy. Plenty are just there for a breath of fresh air, so to speak.

My family and I probably belong to the latter category of tourists. It was really nice being in a slightly westernised, liberal environment, while still getting some insight into the Middle-East. I found Manama to be something in between Dubai and Jeddah. Despite its best efforts and even with its plethora of entertainment venues, Manama is less flashy and cosmopolitan than Dubai. Thanks to a lack of a substantial amount of western tourists and expatriates, the city has managed to preserve a great part of its cultural heritage, but it's not as, well...primitive, as Jeddah. The streets aren't littered with rubble and trash, shops aren't obligated to close for prayer time, women in mini skirts are no big deal. I'm thinking it's probably easier for a westerner to adapt to life in Bahrain, but again, Saudi Arabia makes for a more authentic Middle-Eastern experience.

Anyhow, here is my "Best of Bahrain" list: 

• Al-Fateh Grand Mosque

This was the first time I had ever entered a mosque, since in Saudi Arabia infidels like me are barely welcome within the perimeter of one. The Al-Fateh Islamic Centre though, welcomes all, Muslims and non-believers alike. Entrance is free of charge and we had our own personal tour guide, who not only filled us in on information regarding the mosque, but was also eager to answer questions concerning any aspect of Islamic faith.

The mosque itself is simultaneously simple and an architectural beauty. As the name suggests, it's very spacious, being able to accommodate about 7.000 worshippers at a time. We were lead through a courtyard with marble floor, into the main prayer room, which was virtually bare. There was plush wall-to-wall carpet, a pulpit, from which Islamic scholars deliver sermons, and a niche in the marble wall, which indicates the direction of Mecca. Other than that, the only ornament was the elaborate chandelier imported from Vienna. I don't know about other mosques, but in Al-Fateh I found that there's this incredible serenity, making it an ideal place to pray and reflect upon oneself.

After a general tour of the mosque, we sat in the main prayer room with our tour guide and engaged in a spirited conversation about Islam. He seemed anxious to eliminate any misconceptions we may have as westerners exposed to constant negative propaganda about his faith, and he answered all our questions, even the ones meant to challenge him, in a patient and straightforward manner. I can't say I agreed with everything he said, but this discussion definitely helped me gain a better understanding of Islam and the Muslim way of thinking, and that was the point of it. All in all, the visit to Al-Fateh Mosque was a very valuable experience, one I truly enjoyed.

• Manama Souk

Like pretty much any city in the Middle-East, Manama has its own souk. This one happens to be a bit different from Jeddah's. The "concept" is the same, of course: several blocks of shops with the merchandise displayed out on the street. On the outskirts of Manama's souk though, there are many stores selling souvenirs, your typical "I <heart> Bahrain/Manama" T-Shirts, magnets, shot glasses, whatever, the type of thing you would have no chance finding in Jeddah, as there's really no tourism. Well, except for the millions of Hajj pilgrims, but I've never seen an "I <heart> Mecca T-shirt. Which is a shame really, I'm sure they'd be big sellers around here. Anyway. Some parts of the souk in Manama are a bit touristy, but as you progress further into the heart of it, things change completely, and you get to see Manama's huge Indian community. Arabic gives way to Hindi or Punjabi, abayas to saris, and within a few minutes you feel as if you've stepped into a neighbourhood in India. The stores in this part of the souk cater more to everyday needs, selling pots and pans, tools, colourful clothing and fabrics. There are also plenty of sweet shops, where you can buy delicious Indian treats like jalebi or gulab jamun. I always like visiting this sort of local market, because that's where you really get to feel the vibe of a place.

•  Bahraini Pearls

In a different part of Manama's souk you'll find Gold City, a mini-mall with stores that sell mainly (you guessed it) gold jewellery. Gold isn't what attracts the tourists, though. It's Bahrain's most famous heritage item, the genuine Bahraini pearl. We ventured into one of the many jewellery shops that sell them, where the shopkeeper proudly presented us with a selection of gorgeous pearls, some of them no bigger than a grain of rice. He eagerly explained to us how pearls are formed: when something, ie a grain of sand or a piece of shell, enters an oyster's soft inner body, the creature, irritated, starts coating the foreign object with layers of a smooth, hard, crystalline substance, called "nacre", thus forming the pearl. There has always been an abundance of pearls in Bahrain's waters and the pearl-diving industry was thriving on the island long before oil was struck. Today, the pearl is mostly a national icon, with little economic importance. Now pearl-diving "expeditions" are often carried out by tourists decked out in snorkels and fins, and plenty of them actually find their very own Bahraini pearl to take home.